Mt Shasta Crevasse Rescue Course

Day 1 – Pack Check and Approach to Camp

The course begins at 8 a.m. at the SWS Mountain Guides office in Mount Shasta. The group completes a full pack check together, and guides finalize the distribution of shared gear, ensuring everyone has what is needed for the course. Water can be topped off before departing for the trailhead. Depending on road conditions, the approach may begin from Brewer Creek or the Northgate trailhead. From either starting point, the group hikes to camp at roughly 10,000 feet near the Hotlum Glacier.

At camp, participants set up tents and organize gear, establishing a base for the skills training. The afternoon is dedicated to introductory exercises such as rope handling, knots, hitches, and basic ice axe and crampon techniques. Participants also have the option to explore the nearby glacier briefly to become familiar with the terrain. The evening is spent together over dinner, reviewing the plan for the next day and giving participants time to rest and prepare for a full day of glacier-based instruction.

Day 2 – Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Training

After an early start (generally just after sunrise), we enjoy breakfast at camp, and we head to the glacier to set up our classroom for the day. Training covers a range of skills critical for glacier travel and crevasse rescue, including rope team travel, belaying, anchor systems, pulley and haul systems, and full crevasse rescue drills. The entire day is spent on the glacier,covering practical exercises and scenarios designed to give you hands-on experience in managing rope systems and working effectively as a team or alone on glaciated alpine terrain. After a full day of training, the group returns to camp for dinner and a review of the day’s lessons.

Day 3 – Skill Review and Descent

The final morning begins at a relaxed pace with breakfast at camp. Participants have the option to return to the glacier for additional practice or to refine skills from the previous day. Once our training session is completed, camp is broken down, and the group begins the descent, retracing the approach route back to the trailhead. We aim to arrive at the trailhead in the early afternoon before we make our way back to our office in Mt. Shasta.

• Q: What areas does SWS Mountain Guides operate in?
  A: SWS operated throughout California in both the Sierra Nevada and Mt Shasta Region since 1981 under the same management, plus Oregon & Nevada, and international destinations around the world for over 30 plus years, guiding in mountaineering, rock & ice climbing, ski & snowboarding guiding, and avalanche education.
• Q: How do I know if I’m ready for a guided climb?
  A: We offer courses, climbs, and clinics for all skill levels. Your readiness depends on your fitness, experience, goals, and comfort in the outdoors. We aim to provide courses and trips designed to build your skills. See physical requirements list above.
• Q: What is a good weather resource for Mount Shasta?
  A: The National Weather Service, Windy.com, and local avalanche center weather stations are all reliable. Make sure to check updated conditions before your trip, as mountain weather can change rapidly on Mt. Shasta.
• Q: How much water should I bring for a climb?
  A: We recommend having a capacity of carrying 2–3 liters per person for a most trips, but this varies with conditions, exertion, and route. For most routes on Mt. Shasta, we can make the approach into camp with carrying approximately 2 liters of water but the summit day will require carrying 2-3 liters. We can advise exact needs for each trip during the first morning we meet for a pack check.
• Q: What should I pack for a guided trip?
  A: We provide your helmet, harness, ice axe (if needed), and a tent plus stove and pots for melting & boiling water. This typically means your essentials include appropriate clothing layers, a waterproof jacket & pants, gloves, hat, mountaineering boots, sunglasses, sunscreen, water, snacks, and any personal items you might want. We provide a detailed packing list for your trip in your reservation confirmation email, or you can find some recommended items in our Mountain Shop.
• Q: Do I need prior climbing experience?
  A: Not always. For some routes on Mt. Shasta, we do require prior experience, however, we have courses for beginners and trips designed for new climbers as well. For some of our other destinations or more technical objectives we do require more specific climbing experience to make sure it’s the right fit and appropriate for your skill level.  If you have questions about this, please contact our office or inquire online.
• Q: What is your group size?
  A: We keep groups small to ensure personalized attention, and a better experience for our guests. Generally, we operate at a 1:2 or 1:3 guide-to-guest ratio.  However, depending on the trip, we may go up to a 1:4 ratio (Clear Creek on Mt. Shasta, or non-summit bound glacier courses).
• Q: Are your guides certified?
  A: Yes. All our guides hold certifications in various fields or disciplines many have Outdoor Recreation Degrees both BA / BS and MA. Some hold certifications from the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) or equivalent international organizations.  All our guides are highly experienced in their specialties.  To read more about our guides and their various certifications and backgrounds, visit the ‘Our Guides’ page to learn more.
• Q: How physically fit do I need to be?
  A: Fitness requirements vary by trip, and the objective. Most climbs require moderate to high aerobic endurance, strength, and comfort at altitude. We recommend our partners at Uphill Athlete to help you prepare physically for a climb with us or anyone else.
• Q: Can I rent gear from SWS Mountain Guides?
  A: We offer rental options for select items like puffy jackets, trekking poles, snowshoes, mountaineering boots, crampons, and avalanche gear. Our rental items are only available to our guests, so a link to our online rental store is provided with your confirmation email after making a reservation with us.
• Q: What is your cancellation or refund policy?
  A: We have a cancellation policy; however, we don’t want to operate like an airline and be super rigid. We do our best to work with our guests if they need to cancel or change a reservation.  Please keep in mind that our options become more limited once we’re within 30 days of the trip date, so we ALWAYS recommend trip insurance for our guests.  Our full cancellation policy is provided with your reservation confirmation, or you can find it on our website HERE>>
• Q: How do I train or prepare for a climb?
  A: Focus on cardio, strength, and hiking with a pack. Specific courses in mountaineering, glacier travel, and snow skills can accelerate your readiness and confidence. For more personalized training suggestions and programs, we recommend contacting our partners at Uphill Athlete.
• Q: Is mountaineering safe?
  A: All outdoor activities have inherent risks, including weather, altitude, and terrain hazards. Our guides are trained to recognize, manage and reduce your exposure to these risks when possible. We take our guests’ trust in us seriously and do all that we can to minimize the hazards associated with any trip while still providing an exceptional experience.
• Q: How do I know what trip is right for me?
  A: We are happy to help match you with a trip based on your experience, fitness, and goals. Feel free to contact us by phone or email at any time if you need. We want to make sure you can make the best choice for your abilities, experience, and goals.