Mt Shasta Avalanche Gulch 2-Day

Day 1 – Approach to High Camp

We begin the trip with a morning meeting at the SWS Mountain Guides Mt. Shasta office for a complete gear check and orientation. Guides will review both personal and group equipment, answer any last-minute questions, and make sure everyone is packed and ready. Once the team is set, we drive to the Bunny Flat trailhead at 6,900 feet, where our climb begins.

From the trailhead, the route winds steadily upward through open forest and into alpine terrain, passing the Sierra Club’s Horse Camp at 7,900 feet before breaking onto the broad snow slopes of Avalanche Gulch. The climb continues past familiar landmarks such as 50/50 Flat and gradually steepens as we work toward our high camp. By mid-afternoon we aim to establish camp near 9,500 feet, just below Helen Lake, with Mt. Shasta’s upper mountain towering above.

After setting up tents and rehydrating, the group will take part in a snow school clinic. This abbreviated skills session is designed to prepare climbers for the conditions they will encounter on summit day. Instruction includes crampon technique, ice axe use, self-belay, and self-arrest practice. Once the clinic wraps up, we shift our attention to dinner, organizing summit gear, and an early night of rest. Tomorrow’s climb will begin in the dark hours of the morning.

Day 2 – Summit Climb and Descent

Summit day begins shortly after midnight with a quick breakfast and hot drinks before we step onto the snow by headlamp. Leaving high camp, we ascend the broad slopes of Avalanche Gulch, moving steadily upward toward the steep terrain that guards the upper mountain.

The route climbs past Helen Lake, then steepens as we approach the Red Banks, a series of rock outcrops that form one of the major landmarks on the route. After navigating through this section, the angle eases briefly before we tackle the long grind up Misery Hill. Cresting the hill brings us to the summit plateau, an expansive snowfield at 14,000 feet with the true summit rising ahead.

From the plateau, a final 200-foot climb up the summit pinnacle delivers us to the highest point on Mt. Shasta at 14,179 feet. If weather and conditions allow, we take time to enjoy the panoramic views stretching from Lassen Peak in the south to the volcanic Cascade Range in the north.

The ascent to the summit typically takes eight to nine hours. After celebrating our high point, we begin the descent, retracing our route back through Misery Hill, the Red Banks, and down the snow slopes to high camp. The descent to camp usually takes three to four hours. After a short break to rest and pack up, we continue the final leg down to Bunny Flat, often reaching the trailhead by late afternoon or early evening.

This climb is a demanding two-day push, but one that rewards climbers with a true alpine experience on California’s most iconic peak.