Mt Shasta Hotlum Glacier Course

Day 1 – Pack Check and Approach to Camp

The program begins at 8 a.m. at the SWS Mountain Guides office in Mount Shasta, where the group gathers for a complete pack check and final distribution of group gear. Water bottles are topped off before departing for the trailhead. Depending on road conditions, the approach will begin either from Brewer Creek or the Northgate trailhead. From there, the group makes its way up to a camp set at roughly 10,000 feet near the Hotlum Glacier, which will serve as our base for training and the summit attempt. Once at camp, we set up tents and settle in. The remainder of the afternoon is dedicated to introductory instruction, such as rope handling, knots, and ice axe technique, before regrouping for a team dinner and an overview of the plan for the coming days.

Day 2 – Glacier Skills and Team Travel

After breakfast, we head to the glacier to begin our first day’s training. Instruction focuses on foundational techniques for glacier travel, including proper rope team spacing, knots and hitches, and the fundamentals of self-arrest and self-belay. We’ll also practice crampon use and ice axe technique on lower angle terrain.  Our goal is to build familiarity and confidence using our equipment on the glacier. Throughout the day, we work through practical exercises as a team, and individually.  We apply skills directly on the glacier before returning to camp in the late afternoon. Dinner is followed by a discussion of the day’s lessons and preparation for the next training session.

Day 3 – Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Systems

On the third day, we continue skill development with a focus on crevasse rescue and glacier systems. Training includes constructing anchors, setting up pulley and haul systems, and practicing both team and individual rescue techniques. We’ll run through full rescue scenarios, working on efficiency, problem-solving, and safety during controlled rescues. By the end of the day, we’ll have worked through the critical elements of managing glacial travel, and crevasse hazards. The group returns to camp for an early dinner and rest before preparing for the summit attempt the following morning.

Day 4 – Summit Attempt

Summit Day!  We’ll wake very early for a pre-dawn start, eating a quick breakfast before beginning the climb. From camp, we ascend either the Hotlum Glacier or the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, depending on conditions. The route takes us on Mt. Shasta’s Hotlum Glacier, steadily gaining elevation as we make our way toward the upper mountain. The final portion of the ascent brings us across the summit plateau and up the final summit pinnacle. After enjoying a little time on the summit, we descend along the same route back to camp. The evening is spent recovering, sharing a group meal, and reflecting on the climb.

Day 5 – Descent to Trailhead

The final morning begins with breakfast and camp breakdown. If time and energy allow, we may take the opportunity to review specific skills before beginning the hike out. From camp, the group retraces the approach back to the trailhead, arriving in the early afternoon.