Mt Shasta West Face

Day 1 – Pack Check and Approach to Camp

The trip begins at 8 a.m. at the SWS Mountain Guides office in Mount Shasta. The group completes a pack check together, and guides issue any remaining shared gear needed for the climb. Water can be topped off before driving to the Bunnyflat Trailhead.

From Bunny Flat, the approach follows the Avalanche Gulch route, passing the historic Sierra Hut cabin known as Horse Camp before turning toward Hidden Valley. In the early season, the route to camp is generally snow-covered, while later in the season, typically late June into July, the approach is mostly on dirt and scree covered trails. By mid-afternoon, we reach Hidden Valley at approximately 9,200 feet. Tents are set up and gear organized. From this location, climbers can see the West Face as it rises to the summit from camp, as well as Mt. Shastina. Once settled into camp, guides will lead a short snow skills refresher covering ice axe use, self-arrest, and movement on snow. After dinner, the evening is spent reviewing the plan for summit day and getting rest for the early start.

Day 2 – Summit Attempt

The group begins before dawn with breakfast and final preparations. From Hidden Valley, we begin our ascent of West Face. Early season climbs are generally on snow from camp to the summit, while later season climbs may begin on rock at lower and mid-elevations before reaching the snow fields at higher elevations on the face.

The West Face is broad and maintains a generally consistent grade for much of the climb until reaching the top of the face where we travers towards Misery Hill and rejoin the upper portion of the Avalanche Gulch route. Views along the route include Casaval Ridge and Shastina, and one of the most amazing views of a mountain shadow during sunrise. All this while we have the Trinity Alps and the Eddies visible behind.  Once the summit plateau is reached, the group crosses it to make the final ascent up the remaining summit pinnacle. After a short time on the summit, the descent follows the same route back to Hidden Valley. Summit day is long, often 12 hours or more, with dinner and rest at camp following.

Day 3 – Return to the Trailhead

The final morning begins at a relaxed pace. After breakfast, the group breaks down camp and hikes back to Bunny Flat. The descent retraces the approach, moving from alpine slopes through the Avalanche Gulch corridor and into the forest. Seasonal conditions vary, with lingering snow early in the season or clear trails in later summer. The group typically reaches the trailhead by midday, where our vehicles await us.

• Q: What areas does SWS Mountain Guides operate in?
  A: SWS operated throughout California in both the Sierra Nevada and Mt Shasta Region since 1981 under the same management, plus Oregon & Nevada, and international destinations around the world for over 30 plus years, guiding in mountaineering, rock & ice climbing, ski & snowboarding guiding, and avalanche education.
• Q: How do I know if I’m ready for a guided climb?
  A: We offer courses, climbs, and clinics for all skill levels. Your readiness depends on your fitness, experience, goals, and comfort in the outdoors. We aim to provide courses and trips designed to build your skills. See physical requirements list above.
• Q: What is a good weather resource for Mount Shasta?
  A: The National Weather Service, Windy.com, and local avalanche center weather stations are all reliable. Make sure to check updated conditions before your trip, as mountain weather can change rapidly on Mt. Shasta.
• Q: How much water should I bring for a climb?
  A: We recommend having a capacity of carrying 2–3 liters per person for a most trips, but this varies with conditions, exertion, and route. For most routes on Mt. Shasta, we can make the approach into camp with carrying approximately 2 liters of water but the summit day will require carrying 2-3 liters. We can advise exact needs for each trip during the first morning we meet for a pack check.
• Q: What should I pack for a guided trip?
  A: We provide your helmet, harness, ice axe (if needed), and a tent plus stove and pots for melting & boiling water. This typically means your essentials include appropriate clothing layers, a waterproof jacket & pants, gloves, hat, mountaineering boots, sunglasses, sunscreen, water, snacks, and any personal items you might want. We provide a detailed packing list for your trip in your reservation confirmation email, or you can find some recommended items in our Mountain Shop.
• Q: Do I need prior climbing experience?
  A: Not always. For some routes on Mt. Shasta, we do require prior experience, however, we have courses for beginners and trips designed for new climbers as well. For some of our other destinations or more technical objectives we do require more specific climbing experience to make sure it’s the right fit and appropriate for your skill level.  If you have questions about this, please contact our office or inquire online.
• Q: What is your group size?
  A: We keep groups small to ensure personalized attention, and a better experience for our guests. Generally, we operate at a 1:2 or 1:3 guide-to-guest ratio.  However, depending on the trip, we may go up to a 1:4 ratio (Clear Creek on Mt. Shasta, or non-summit bound glacier courses).
• Q: Are your guides certified?
  A: Yes. All our guides hold certifications in various fields or disciplines many have Outdoor Recreation Degrees both BA / BS and MA. Some hold certifications from the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) or equivalent international organizations.  All our guides are highly experienced in their specialties.  To read more about our guides and their various certifications and backgrounds, visit the ‘Our Guides’ page to learn more.
• Q: How physically fit do I need to be?
  A: Fitness requirements vary by trip, and the objective. Most climbs require moderate to high aerobic endurance, strength, and comfort at altitude. We recommend our partners at Uphill Athlete to help you prepare physically for a climb with us or anyone else.
• Q: Can I rent gear from SWS Mountain Guides?
  A: We offer rental options for select items like puffy jackets, trekking poles, snowshoes, mountaineering boots, crampons, and avalanche gear. Our rental items are only available to our guests, so a link to our online rental store is provided with your confirmation email after making a reservation with us.
• Q: What is your cancellation or refund policy?
  A: We have a cancellation policy; however, we don’t want to operate like an airline and be super rigid. We do our best to work with our guests if they need to cancel or change a reservation.  Please keep in mind that our options become more limited once we’re within 30 days of the trip date, so we ALWAYS recommend trip insurance for our guests.  Our full cancellation policy is provided with your reservation confirmation, or you can find it on our website HERE>>
• Q: How do I train or prepare for a climb?
  A: Focus on cardio, strength, and hiking with a pack. Specific courses in mountaineering, glacier travel, and snow skills can accelerate your readiness and confidence. For more personalized training suggestions and programs, we recommend contacting our partners at Uphill Athlete.
• Q: Is mountaineering safe?
  A: All outdoor activities have inherent risks, including weather, altitude, and terrain hazards. Our guides are trained to recognize, manage and reduce your exposure to these risks when possible. We take our guests’ trust in us seriously and do all that we can to minimize the hazards associated with any trip while still providing an exceptional experience.
• Q: How do I know what trip is right for me?
  A: We are happy to help match you with a trip based on your experience, fitness, and goals. Feel free to contact us by phone or email at any time if you need. We want to make sure you can make the best choice for your abilities, experience, and goals.