With the recent accidents on Mt. Shasta’s Clear Creek route, I’ve been thinking a lot about what may have contributed to them. I’ve guided people up that route more times than I can count anymore, and I can tell you firsthand, it’s not the casual stroll some expect. Clear Creek for the most part, doesn’t require ropes or technical climbing, but it does demand grit, endurance, and respect for the mountain (perhaps more endurance than several other routes I can think of). I’ve seen strong hikers surprised by how loose the scree can be, or how quickly a sunny day can turn into whiteout conditions. The most recent fatality is thought that weather and poor visibility may have contributed to the incident.
If incidents like that aren’t a sobering reminder that Clear Creek is still a serious mountain climb, I don’t know what would be. The biggest misconception I run into is that “non-technical” means “safe.” That simply isn’t true. Above 10,000 feet, you’re dealing with thin air, fatigue, unpredictable weather, and steep snow slopes that can ice up overnight or simply stay firm enough to create ‘no fall’ situations. While Clear Creek generally doesn’t require ice axes or crampons, often times we will take them when the route first opens, and as we get into the later months of the season. That said, without crampons, an ice axe, and the know-how to use them, you’re gambling with the odds of an accident having dire consequences. Because of this, we often times are more conservative than those going non-guided. Our guests put great trust on us, and sometimes that trust may come at the price of a summit.
Clear Creek like any other route on Mt. Shasta, or other big mountains around the world; rewards preparation and humility, but tends to punish shortcuts and complacency. So while a guided climb isn’t necessarily a ‘safe’ climb, guided trips tend to be about more than just reaching the summit. We focus on teaching the judgment and skills that make the difference between acceptable risk exposure on a climb and when the exposure hazards or risks are too dangerous to manage or mitigate. Whether it’s pacing yourself on a long push, navigating in low visibility, or staying sharp when tired, these lessons matter as much as the view from the top. Clear Creek is beautiful and approachable, but it is still Mount Shasta—and that means treating it with the respect it deserves.
This in no way is meant to cast blame or doubt on the judgement, abilities, or decisions the deceased climbers or their partners made this season. This is only meant as a thought provoking post to create discussion amongst those looking to climb Clear Creek or any other route on Mt. Shasta. Please take any attempt or activity on Mt. Shasta seriously.
Written by Caleb Burns