Caleb brings an honest look at the most overlooked month in avalanche safety: October. There’s no snow on the ground, but the weak layers that will matter in February are forming right now — in the snowpack, and in us.
Blog Archive SWS Mountain Guides
California Mountain Guides Blog Archive
A good headlamp is a critical piece of safety equipment.
A reliable headlamp allows a person to navigate, manage ropes, assess terrain, and respond to problems when daylight is gone. On alpine climbs, we start hours before sunrise, and delays, changing weather, or an emergency can easily extend the descent into darkness....
Sea Level to 14,000 Feet: How to Acclimatize for California’s Highest Peaks
Climbing California 14ers like Mount Shasta (14,179 ft) or Mount Whitney (14,505 ft) is a bucket-list achievement. However, for climbers living near sea level—whether in the Bay Area, Los Angeles, or elsewhere in the country—the compressed 2- to 3-day itinerary...
The Call Someone Has to Answer
Caleb covers some background on Search and Rescue in the United States and why the billing of those needing rescue is set up as a public service.
Read Mountain Weather Like a Pro: Preparing for Your 14,000-Foot Climb
When preparing for a climb or ski on Mount Shasta (14,179 ft) or Mount Whitney (14,505 ft), or just hiking into the mountains, checking the standard weather app on your phone won't cut it. A sunny 75°F forecast for the town of Mount Shasta or Lone Pine often hides...
When the Screen Goes Black: The Lost Art of Basic Map & Compass still Matters
It’s 20°F on the upper slopes of Mount Shasta. The wind is howling across the ridge, biting through your outer layers, and you pull out your phone to double-check your line. The display stutters, dims, and serves up the universal symbol of backcountry panic: a black...
Eyewear For The Mountains
When I am guiding in the mountains, I think of eyewear as essential piece of safety equipment that is non-negotiable! Once we are above tree line, bright snow, wind, and intense UV exposure can quickly turn poor visibility into a serious...
The Question Every Guide Must Answer
Here we are, as I’m finishing on this article, it’s already the beginning of August. The days are long, and the temperatures are hot, I have found myself looking toward winter, hoping it might arrive a little earlier this year. I have even started working on my skis...
Above the Tree Line: Protecting Your Eyes and Skin from Alpine Sun Exposure
At SWS Mountain Guides, we’ve been guiding clients up glaciated peaks, high-altitude passes, and technical alpine ridges since 1981. If there is one lesson four decades of mountain experience teaches you, it’s that the alpine sun is a relentless force. Whether you’re...
Choosing the right footwear for Mt Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route in late summer
Late summer is one of the best times to climb the Mountaineers Route on Mt. Whitney, but do not let the calendar fool you. The Mountaineers route is still a demanding alpine climb! The right footwear can make the difference between a confident ascent and a long,...