For most trekkers heading to Everest Base Camp, the experience doesn’t really start on the trail—it starts in Kathmandu. It’s a city that hits you all at once: busy, colorful, a little chaotic, but full of life, great food, and a kind of energy that makes it clear you’ve arrived somewhere completely different. After a long international flight, spending a couple of days here is the perfect way to reset, shake off the travel, and ease into what’s ahead.
Most people end up staying in Thamel, which is basically the center of the trekking world in Kathmandu. It’s a maze of narrow streets packed with gear shops, bakeries, cafés, and restaurants. You’ll see expedition duffels piled up outside hotels, trekkers grabbing last-minute gear, and groups meeting up before heading into the mountains. There’s a constant buzz—part excitement, part nerves—as everyone prepares for their own adventure.
At the same time, it’s just a great place to wander. You can spend hours poking through shops, grabbing coffee, or sitting outside and watching everything go by. After the effort it takes to get to Nepal, those first couple of days in Kathmandu are a chance to slow things down a bit and settle in.
One of the standout spots to visit before heading into the mountains is Boudhanath Stupa. It’s one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, and it feels completely different from the busy streets of Thamel. Pilgrims circle the stupa spinning prayer wheels, monks move quietly through the crowds, and prayer flags hang overhead. If you’ve got the time, it’s worth heading up to one of the rooftop cafés nearby, ordering tea, and just taking it all in.
Another classic stop is Swayambhunath—better known as the Monkey Temple. It sits up on a hill above the city and gives you one of the best views of the Kathmandu Valley. The climb up the stairs is a good way to stretch your legs after traveling, and at the top you’re rewarded with the stupa, sweeping views, and, as expected, plenty of monkeys wandering around.
Back in Thamel, food tends to become a highlight pretty quickly. Kathmandu has a surprisingly good mix of options, and it’s a great place to enjoy a few solid meals before heading into the more basic menus you’ll find on the trek.
OR2K is a longtime favorite for a reason. It’s relaxed, comfortable, and serves up really good Middle Eastern vegetarian food—think hummus, falafel, fresh salads, and plenty of options to share. It’s the kind of place where dinners tend to stretch out a bit as people settle in and swap stories.
Roadhouse Cafe is another go-to, especially if you’re craving something familiar. Their wood-fired pizzas hit the spot after travel, and it’s a common place for trekking groups to gather before heading out.
And if you’re in the mood to mix things up, Yin Yang Restaurant has been around forever and serves consistently good Thai food. It’s a nice change of pace and a solid option for a relaxed dinner.
Kathmandu is also where a lot of the small pre-trek details get taken care of. Some people pick up extra gear, others grab snacks for the trail, and every now and then, someone decides it’s the perfect time for a haircut. Asylum Hair Salon in Thamel is a popular spot for that—nothing fancy, just a good place to clean up before heading into the mountains.
If you have a bit more time, Kathmandu Durbar Square is worth a visit. It’s the historic center of the city, filled with old temples, courtyards, and traditional architecture. It’s a great place to walk around, take in some history, and see a different side of Kathmandu beyond Thamel.
For us at SWS Mountain Guides, these first few days are more than just prep time. It’s when the team comes together, gear gets sorted, and people start getting to know each other. There’s always a sense that something big is about to begin. Before long, it’s an early morning flight to Lukla, and everything shifts. The noise and movement of Kathmandu give way to quiet trails, suspension bridges, and small mountain villages as the trek into the Khumbu begins. But even after the trek, a lot of people look back on those first days in Kathmandu just as fondly. Good food, new experiences, and that shared anticipation—it all sticks with you. And for those of us who keep coming back, Kathmandu never really gets old.
Written by Jim Weeg
SWS Nepal Trekking Guide