All mountaineers, guides, and alpine enthusiasts know the importance of the proper footwear. Having the correct boot for the job is crucial, although the experienced climbers know all too well that the fit of the boot can spell the difference between a successful climb, and a miserable, blister-filled excursion resulting in lost toenails.
The fit of each mountaineering boot will vary by type, brand, and model. A boot that’s made for a Denali summit in the spring is going to fit differently than a boot designed for a trip to Lassen peak in the summer. Even though there are many options, there are certain things a climber can do to ensure their boot fits properly, enhance the fit, and even modify the fit if needed.
Unique feet
There is no one boot that fits everyone equally because everyone has unique feet. Each person’s anatomy, physiology and biomechanics are going to be different, which can impact how a boot is going to fit. A boot your friend swears is the most comfortable they’ve ever had on, might be the exact opposite experience for yourself because of certain differences.
The human foot is dynamic: its job is to absorb impact of the ground while walking and propel us forward during movement. Walking, running, or hiking with a heavy pack on all shifts how the foot moves and provides a way to balance ourselves. Problems arise when this dynamic body part is placed inside of a static environment, such as a mountaineering boot or a ski boot.
Blisters are formed when there are friction and movement inside the boot. This can often be caused by a mechanical issue in the joints of the foot but can sometimes be caused by the shape of the foot itself. A climber who has narrow feet while wearing wider boots will not be able to comfortably tighten the boot enough to avoid internal movement. Someone who has a very wide foot will keep trying bigger sizes until the vice-like pressure on their forefoot has been relieved, although now their heel will not sit properly in the pocket of the boot.
Proper sizing
Finding the correct sized boot is a balancing act: The climber wants enough room in the toe area so the toenails will not hit the end while kicking steps or descending, while also staying snug throughout the boot so the foot is unable to slide forward.
Each brand will fit slightly different due to the “last”, or shape that the boot is made on, and each company varies when it comes to sizing. This can mean in one brand a climber will fit properly in a men’s size 10, but in another they’ll fit into 11.5. This can also mean that the boot can be the correct length, but the incorrect width or shape for a climber’s foot. There are some modifications that can be made, such as stretching the boot or changing the insole, but it’s best to start with a boot that fits as well as possible.
Insoles
After market insoles (orthotics, footbeds, etc.), are almost always a better option than the stock insoles that come with the boots and is the first step in adjusting how a boot fits. If the exterior of the boot is like the framing of a house, the insoles are like shims to keep everything level. An insole (such as Superfeet, Sole, or any of the hundreds of brands on the market) should make contact with the foot but not feel like the person is standing on a rock. Often insoles will come with different arch heights and thicknesses so a person can get the one that will fit their unique arch area and fill an appropriate amount of room inside the boot. A properly sized insole should eliminate excess motion and assist the bottom of the foot in making proper contact while climbing.
Checking fit
A climber’s boot should not feel like a cumbersome piece of gear that they can’t wait to get off of their feet. So, what does a well-fitting boot feel like?
The boot should feel snug in the ankle and heel areas, but roomy in the toes. The first thing is to make sure the toes have enough room by kicking the toe into the ground or wall. If the toes are hitting, you’re likely going to damage your nails; They should be brushing the front of the boot, barely touching or not at all. The second test is ensuring the heel doesn’t move up and down a substantial amount while walking. A normal heel-to-toe stride isn’t what most people do while climbing mountains, so engaging that climbing action by going up on tippy toes or walking up an incline is more telling.
It’s not uncommon for a person to size up about half of their normal shoe size, or even more, in order to fit into a true mountaineering boot. Most of the brands are designed in Europe, so using the European sizing is more precise. One way to see how a boot will fit right off the bat is to take out the stock insole (the insole that came with the boot), and step on it to see how much room is in front of the longest toe. Usually a person wants about ½” to ¾” in front of their toes in order to accommodate expansion of the foot and keep toenails from hitting the end of the boot. A person can also see if the widest part of the foot (the forefoot) sits where the widest part of the insole is located. If the big and little toes of the foot are spilling over the sides, the boot is probably too narrow to fit without some modification.
Socks can also fine tune the fit of a boot and provide much needed moisture wicking. A thick sock will tighten the fit and can sometimes eliminate movement. A thinner sock can give extra room but also not provide as much insulation or moisture absorption. Using a liner sock of silk or a very thin wool can also add an extra layer that will act as a lubricating layer for friction. Using wool or a natural fiber sock is the best choice, as the fibers will expand and contract helping regulate body heat. Synthetics are also a choice for their moisture wicking properties and are an alternative for those climbers that are allergic to wool.
Lacing adjustments
Different lacing techniques can improve the fit of the boot dramatically. This only works for traditionally laced boots that can be unlaced and re-tied. There are several techniques that tackle a variety of fit issues and can be done on the mountain during a climb in an emergency. Two are particularly helpful:
Toe box too tight: For people with wide feet. Unlace the boot and skip the first one or two sets of eyelets on the front of the toe area. This will allow the material in the front of the boot to spread unrestrictedly.
Top of the foot pain: Good for those with high arched feet. Find where the painful area is on the top of the foot through the tongue of the boot. Unlace the boot to just under that area, then instead of crisscrossing the laces back over the problem spot, thread the laces straight up along the same sides for one or two eyelets, then continue to lace normally. This will create a “lace window” that takes pressure off of this area.
Finding the right boot brand that works for a climber can take some time, and it’s important to spend the time to find the right fit. When in doubt, find a reputable bootfitter that will help narrow down the options and fine tune the boots to fit correctly. Stretching and modifying the boot can accommodate those with foot deformities and make the boots more comfortable, but should only be done by a professional. Take care of your feet, and they’ll take you to the summit.
Written By Jesse Anderlini
Jesse Anderlini, a professional boot-fitter at our local outdoor shop, The Fifth Season. We highly recommend The Fifth Season to all of our guests looking to purchase outdoor gear for their climbs, especially when it comes to mountaineering and ski mountaineering footwear. Jesse is known for his ability to dial in boot fit with precision and care, and he consistently goes above and beyond to make sure each customer leaves with the right setup. The shop’s customer service is outstanding, and the entire staff is always a pleasure to work with.